Monday, September 25, 2006

Lighting Part III : Hair

Diary Entry:

I didn't have many problems in the dark room during this project. The printing went quickly, and I moved from one print to the next smoothly. The only challenge I had was picking the right images at the beginning of the project. I had to make sure that the image fit the project requirement and that I would be able to work with it.
Some of my pictures were too dark, or too grey so I could not print them. After I picked the ones I liked the most, everything followed, and my main opjective was to get as much contrast as I could. I found that this was difficult for the print with two people in it, because of the different skin tones. To get a better color on one face, the other would come out to be too dark or too light. I was happy with the texture that the hair (especially the blond hair) added to the prints, and I tried to make it stand out as much as possible. Mostly for this project I used very high filters, which helped my contrast and added to the texture.




Theory Notes:

Using a flash:

Flash is important in photography because, when used right, it can give excellent results. A flash can be used when there is too little light, and the photographer wants to make the picture lighter, or when there is an area of too much light, and the photographer wants to illuminate the subject and make it stand out from the background. The best way to use a flash is to move it so that the light bounces off a wall, ceiling, or white umbrella. This technique is used to light the subject from different angles, and it can really add a lot of contrast if done the right way, as you can see from the image below.

http://www.shortcourses.com/

As you see, the best-looking picture results from the flash reflected on the ceiling, with the light coming from the top. It creates shadows on the statue that create more contrast. Perhaps, on a person the light effect desired would be different, but rotating the flash (in this case, obviously an external one) clearly produces a better image. Flash is very useful to fill in hard shadows, but it can also be useful to balance the light in a picture.

http://www.shortcourses.com/

In the picture above, you can see that the light coming in from the window is very bright, which results in a darker background and especially darker subjects. To counteract this, one could use a flash. The flash, as you see in the picture below, lights up the subject and the background, and makes the subject stand out.

http://www.shortcourses.com/



Using a light meter:

Light meters are devices that photographers use to measure the light before they take a picture. The light meter will detect the average light reflected from the subject and will provide shutter and aperture settings accordingly. Light meters are useful because they supply settings that would otherwise be hard to find by the photographer alone. Sometimes though, one wants a fast shutter speed or a low aperture. This may not be what the light meter tells you, so you will have to change the settings to get the best results. You may have to add seconds or lower the aperture, but in the end using a light meter will give better results than simply estimating settings for an image.




Printing Compositions: *click on images to enlarge them*

Hair I: flash, outdoors; close-up shot

For this print, I wanted a lot of contrast and detail in the hair. To achieve this, I started with a low filter and an 8 aperture (t.s. 1 and 2), but they looked too grey (t.s. 3). Since I wanter more contrast, I messed around with the filter and time until I reached the result that I wanted. I ended up increasing the filter to 3, and the time to 43 for my final print. I was very happy with the detail and the texture that I obtained.

test strip 1: A:8 ; T:8 ; F:2



test strip 2: A:8 ; T:14-12-10 ; F:2



test strip 3: A:8 ; T:14 ; F:2



print 1: A:8 ; T:43 ; F:3



Hair II: flash, outdoors; angle shot

This portrait was special because of the texture that the hair adds, and this was what I concentrated on. My first test strip (t. s. 5) was obviously too dark, so I decided to close the aperture to 11 and increase the filter to 5 (t.s. 6).... but now the picture was too light! I tried increasing the time (t.s. 7), but the picture was still too light and I wasn't getting enough detail and contrast. Therefore, I decided to go back to the 8 aperture and decrease the time, leaving the high filter (t.s. 8). I liked this much better, because I could see enough detail and texture. So, for my final print, I increased the time to 34 and kept all the other settings.

test strip 4: A:8 ; T:27 ; F:3.5



test strip 5: A:11 ; T:33 ; F:5



test strip 6: A:11 ; T:45 ; F:5



test strip 7: A:8 ; T:27 ; F:5



print 2: A:8 ; T:34 ; F:5



Hair III: flash, outdoors; multiple subjects

This print was very similar to the last one, with the exact same light settings. Therefore, I only had to add time to make this picture perfect, and it fit my needs exactly because the contrast and texture were good. My only problem was balancing the time so that neither skintone looked to light/dark, and in the end I managed to get a result that I was happy with. So for the final print I increased the time to 42 and kept all the other settings.

print 3: A:8 ; T:42 ; F:5






Image Bank:

http://www.evelynmontes.com/

"Untitled" by Evelyn Montes.
I like the non-chalant pose in this picture, which gives it a more cozy (less run-way) look. It's not your usual head-to-shoulder (a bit below the shoulder) photograph, and therefore adds to its uniqueness. The lighting is good, putting in focus the head and hair of the subject. The subject's expression leaves you wondering what he's looking at, which is a pleasing quality of this photograph.

About Evelyn Montes:
Evelyn Montes is a fashion photographer who owns an agency in South Beach, Florida. She started out as a make-up and hair artist, and then decided to become a photographer. She specializes in making portfolios and comp cards for different models in different Miami modeling agencies.



http://www.striffler.com/

"Untitled" by Eric Striffler
I like this picture's slightly blurred feel, which helps capture the subject's emotion: laughter in this case. Even though the picture is a bit too gray, the light is diffused and evenly distributed, so no hard shadows are visible. This photograph's best quality is the angle it has been shot from. By taking the picture from above the subject, the photographer has made this picture more interesting and more keen to catching the attention of viewers.

About Eric Striffler:
Eric Striffler is a photographer who works in New York City, Miami, the Hamptons, and the Caribbean. He has been a fashion, interior, and lifestyle photographer for over 10 years. His advertising and editorial photographs have appeared in many publications, including Businessweek, Vogue, W, and Elle. His photographs have also appeared in galleries and multimedia presentations. He is praised and admired by his colleagues and fellow photographers.



http://www.cartright.com/

"Untitled" by Joseph Cartright
I chose this picture mainly because it has multiple subjects in it, but after examining for a while I fell in love with its atmosphere and facial expressions. The little details on the plate and the jewelry add so much to the composition, filling up space with interesting things. The artist manages to 'advertise' four hairstyles in one frame and still surprise and please the viewer instead of boring him. The poses are interesting and somewhat unconventional, and therefore attract people's interest. Even the facial expressions are captivating, and the smile-smirk-glare of the center subject makes me laugh. I love the dark-victorian feel to the clothes and jewelery and the simple hairstyles.

About Joseph Cartright:
Joseph Cartright is a beauty, lifestyle, and fashion photographer based in New York City. He has been favoring and encouraging the use of a digital camera ever since its first invention, in the 1980s. Together with his large portfolio, Cartright keeps and unpdated blog on his personal website, through which he shares his opinions on anything... from photography to Japanese cars.

Lighting Part II : Fashion Photography

Diary Entry:

This project was long but very successful. I learned to really quicken my pace by working faster or by using two enlargers at a time. By doing this I could work on two prints at the same time, and I would always be busy, never waiting for something to develop. I also gained some more independence when my teacher was absent from school for a week. During this week I often had to make my own judgement call on the quality of my print and whether I should change the settings. I worked fast and was able to produce many prints even though I was working by myself. I didn't have any problems with my prints except some scratches that I hope to be able to fill in soon. During this project I experimented with filters a lot, especially to get more contrast in my clothes pictures. For some of these I used a filter as high as 5!! I'm happy with all of my prints, even though I wish I had a greater variety of clothing for my clothes pictures. My main challenge or this project was to make sure that the viewer understands which item is being 'advertised'. Therefore, for some of these is made the background very dark or increased the contrast to make the item stand out. The best part of this project was when the developer suddenly started to work extremely fast, and pictures developed in less than 15 seconds. Time flew. Keeping up with everything suddenly became a bit harder, but I managed to get four prints done in one lesson. The main reason why I worked fast during this project was that the lighting situations in which I took the pictures were all very similar, so once I got the first couple of prints right, most of the others had similar settings. Something that I should pay more attention two during the next project is minimizing the risk of scratches on my prints by not "stabbing" them while in the solutions, and by being careful when picking them up. The last thing I'd like to work on is getting prints that are more in focus by always using a tripod and making sure that the subject is perfectly in focus.




Theory Notes:

Shooting in Sunlight:

The Sun is the best and least expensive light source: it's free and you never have to carry it around with you! When the Sun is bright, you can get photographs with a lot of contrast, similar to having a hard light. If the Sun isn't as bright, the light will be more diffused and you will get more of a soft light effect. The most important thing to remember whilst shooting outdoors using the Sun is the time of day. Around noon, the Sun is high up in the sky, and the light is shining down onto the subject. This can create problems, such as dark dark shadows on the face of the subject (especially under eyes), and the subjects squinting because the light is too bright. On the other hand, shooting when the sun is low (early morning or late afternoon) will eliminate these problems. The disadvantage with shooting when the sky is low is that the light is mroe diffused and less strong, so there may be a loss of contrast.
To deal with the disadvantages, photographers use some tricks to shoot in bright sunlight. Some may place subjects in a white tent on a very sunny day, resulting in the light being bright and diffused. Others will try to shoot with the bright sunlight behind the subject, to reduce the face shadows and to eliminate any possible squinting.

Shooting in Low Light:

"Low light" is when you have to compensate for the lack of light in a situation. The tricks are the following: One, you could try to use a flash. A good flash (especially if it is external), will light up the subject so that the part of the subject facing it won't have shadows. The farther away your subject is, though, the less effective the flash will be. Two, you can try different shutter speeds. If there is little light, you want a slow shutter speed (1/30 , 1/20 ... depending on the film speed). The slower the film speed, the more light will expose the film. The only problem with this technique is that the shutter speed may to too slow to shoot subjects in movement, and the pictures may come out blurry (a tripod should always be used when working with slow shutter speeds). Three, you can play with the aperture. Just like the shutter speed can be used to expose the film more, the aperture can be opened to let in more light. For this, you can use an open aperture like 2.8. Four, you can use a high ISO. The higher the speed of your film is, the lighter your pictures will be. The only disadvantage with this is that as the film speed increases, the graininess of the picture also does.




Printing Compositions: *click on images to enlarge them*

Accessories I: hard light from a lamp

My goal for this print was to get perfect contrast. I knew that in order for the picture to strike the viewer. So when I got a milky result (test strip 1), I immediately increased the time, and kept the other settings. After several trials, I reached the 35-45 seconds, and I liked the contrast, so I printed my final print at 43 seconds (print 1). I was happy with the pitch black background and the marble-like texture of the subject's face. The only detail I would change is the reflection of the lamp in the glasses!

test strip 1: A:8 ; T:17 ; F:3



test strip 2: A:8 ; T:35-40-45 ; F:3



print 1: A:8 ; T:43 ; F:3



Accessories II: low sunlight

For this accessory, I initially started out with a different image. This image, which can be partly seen in test strips 3 and 4, ended up being worst, compositionally, than another one, so I kept my settings and printed the other one. I started with a very grey test strip (test strip 3) [very strange settings..], and after some trials, I found better-looking settings, which were completely different from the ones I started with. A lower time, a smaller aperture, and a medium filter did the trick. But I still wasn't content with the contrast, so I added a higher filter and I slightly increased the time (t.s. 5). I was happy with this test strip, so I kept those settings for my final print (print 2).

test strip 3: A:2.8 ; T:40 ; F:none



test strip 4: A:5.6 ; T:13 ; F:2.5



test strip 5: A:5.6; T:18 ; F:5



print 2: A:5.6 ; T:18 ; F:5



Accessories III: low sunlight

For this print, I started out with a 2.8 aperture and a low time of 8 seconds (test strip 6). I was happy with how it looked, and thought I would get enough contrast. This image went really quickly, and I kept those settings and was done with the final print (print 3) before long.

test strip 6: A:2.8 ; T:8 ; F:none



print 3: A:2.8 ; T:10 ; F:none



Clothes I: low sunlight

My first attempt was way too gray (test strip 7), so I increased the time to 30 seconds, hoping to get more blacks. What I got was better (t.s. 8), but I increased the aperture to 5.6 and returned to 20 seconds for my final print (print 4), which gave me more contrast. The worst thing about this picture is the background, which is dark grey and boring: couldn't get it to have any more contrast!

test strip 7: A:2.8 ; T:30 ; F:4.5



test strip 8: A:2.8; T:20 ; F:4.5



print 4: A5.6 ; T:20 ; F:4.5



Clothes II: low sunlight

The main problem with this print, like the last one, was the bad background. My goal was to make it dark enough so it wouldn't take the attention away from the subject. My first test strip (test strip 9) was too light, it didn't have enough any black. So I opened the aperture to 5.6 and halved the time to 15... (t.s. 10 after some trials).. but I wanted more details in the shirt so I realized I had to go even darker, to 20 seconds (t.s. 11). I liked these settings the best, so I kept them and slightly lowered the time for my final print (print 5). As I was working on more than one print, I accidentally left this print in the developer for more time, and I got a very dark picture. The, bringing into the light, I realized that the darkness worked to my advantage, blacking out the bacground and putting the subject in focus.

test strip 9: A:8; T:30 ; F:5



test strip 10: A:5.6 ; T:15 ; F:5



test strip 11: A:5.6 ; T:20 ; F:5



print 5: A:5.6 ; T:18 ; F:5 5+ minutes in developer



Clothes III: low sunlight

This picture was taken around 6 in the afternoon. You can see that the sun is low in the sky by noticing the shadows that the trees create. I was worried that this picture would be too dark, but in the end I was happy with the final print. I started out with the same settings as the previous landscape (test strip 14) but I got a picture with way too much white! So I opened up the aperture all the way, kept the same filter and tried different times (t.s. 15) to see if it would improve. For my final print I just increased the time a bit, to 15 seconds, and I was satisfied with the contrast beween the trees and the sky, and with the reflection on the trees in the lake (print 6).

test strip 12: A:5.6 ; T:12 ; F:5



print 6: A:5.6 ; T:16 ; F:5



Shoes I: hard light from lamp

This picture was taken around 6 in the afternoon. You can see that the sun is low in the sky by noticing the shadows that the trees create. I was worried that this picture would be too dark, but in the end I was happy with the final print. I started out with the same settings as the previous landscape (test strip 14) but I got a picture with way too much white! So I opened up the aperture all the way, kept the same filter and tried different times (t.s. 15) to see if it would improve. For my final print I just increased the time a bit, to 15 seconds, and I was satisfied with the contrast beween the trees and the sky, and with the reflection on the trees in the lake (print 6).

test strip 13: (both) A:8 ; T:15 ; F:3



print 7: A:8 ; T:12 ; F:3



Shoes II: soft sunlight

This picture was taken around 6 in the afternoon. You can see that the sun is low in the sky by noticing the shadows that the trees create. I was worried that this picture would be too dark, but in the end I was happy with the final print. I started out with the same settings as the previous landscape (test strip 14) but I got a picture with way too much white! So I opened up the aperture all the way, kept the same filter and tried different times (t.s. 15) to see if it would improve. For my final print I just increased the time a bit, to 15 seconds, and I was satisfied with the contrast beween the trees and the sky, and with the reflection on the trees in the lake (print 6).

test strip 14: A:5.6; T:6 ; F:2



test strip 15: A:5.6 ; T:7 ; F:2



print 8: A:5.6 ; T:7.5. ; F:2



Shoes III: soft sunlight

This picture was taken around 6 in the afternoon. You can see that the sun is low in the sky by noticing the shadows that the trees create. I was worried that this picture would be too dark, but in the end I was happy with the final print. I started out with the same settings as the previous landscape (test strip 14) but I got a picture with way too much white! So I opened up the aperture all the way, kept the same filter and tried different times (t.s. 15) to see if it would improve. For my final print I just increased the time a bit, to 15 seconds, and I was satisfied with the contrast beween the trees and the sky, and with the reflection on the trees in the lake (print 6).

test strip 16: A:5.6 ; T:7; F:2



print 9: A:5.6 ; T:7 ; F:2






Image Bank:

http://www.yanickdery.com/

"Untitled" by Yanick Dery.
I love this picture! The lighting is perfect, making the subject more interesting and the dress more appealing. The background chosen is unusual, and therefore grabs the attention of the viewer. The model's pose is also unusual, but it gives the photograph an informal feel, not cold like many fashion photographs are. This picture spreads warmth instead, and makes the viewer curious about what the model is laughing at and pointing at.

About Yanick Dery:
Yanick Dery is a fashion and beauty photographer who has been studying art since he was 16. He has traveled all around the world and has worked for various magazines. He now has a studios in Montreal and in New York, and he now lives in New York.


http://www.mullerphoto.com/

"Untitled" by Michael Muller
I chose this picture because it's interesting and unique. I like how the water is perfectly in focus and the subject seems like he's in motion. Still, the focus is on the goggles, the accessory being advertised. The colors, even though blurred, make this image special and interesting.

About Michael Muller:
Michael Muller is a talented photographer who captivates viewers by using very unusual poses. His images are usually colorful and upbeat, and he has worked for numerous companies and brands, for example Speedo for this picture. He became famous at 16 with some of his snowboarding images. Since then, he has taken some extraordinary photographs that we may even be familiar with, by seeing them in magazines and advertisements.


http://www.demarchelier.net/

I chose this picture because it is clear what the artist wanted to advertise. The poses are great and the angle from which the artist took the picture makes it, again, unique and interesting. The contrast is good and the composition is capturing. I like the fact that it is black and white instead of color, like usual magazine pictures.

About Patrick Demarchelier:
Patrick Demarchelier is one of the most famous fashion photographers, born in 1943. He started his career in Paris and then moved to New York in 1975. He worked for international and luxurious companies like Tiffany's, Armani, Calvin Klein, L'Oreal, and Chanel, and photographed V.I.P.s such as Princess Diana (he was her official photographer, the only non-british photographer to ever photograph the royal family). Demarchelier worked for top magazines such as Vogue and Harper's Bazaar.

Saturday, September 09, 2006

Lighting

Diary Entry:

During this project I didn't have many problems in the darkroom. I had to get accustomed to my new work station, which is in a darker place than mine from last year. My negatives were very good for the most part, so I didn't have many problems printing my pictures. On my first portrait, I worked with the picture to get more texture and to balance the contrast, and I ended up using a low filter. For my second portrait I had a "chemical problem". Strange ripples and dots appeared on my negatives, and there was no way to get rid of them. I printed the picture nonetheless, and It came out fine (It's better to look at it from a distance). For this picture and the next 2 also, I used a very high filter (4.5) to get the effect and the contrast that I needed. I loved the contrast that I got in the first portrait (pumpkin centretable) and the second portrait (roses centretable). For these last two I basically used the same settings as the ones before, just adjusting the aperture and increasing the time.
For the landscapes I worked with a medium filter and very different apertures: 11 for the morning shot and 2.8 for the evening shot. I loved all these prints and was very satisfied with my improvement from last year. Overall, everything in the darkroom ran smoothly, even though I had to get used to waiting longer for prints to go through the developing process, since we were using fiber-based paper. The advantage of this paper was that by monitoring how long a print stays in the developer, you could make an image darker or lighter, and this quality of the paper really helped the contrast on my prints!

Theory Notes:

Hard Light:

Hard light is light that is pointed directly at the subject. There will be dark shadows because of it, and it will usually create a lot of contrast in the picture, because only part of the subject will me illuminated. This creates a very dramatic effect, that can be manipulated by the photographer to create a picture that looks strong or angry.






Soft Light:

Soft light is light that has been diffused or it is indirect. Soft light is used when you want the subject to be lit more evenly, and less shadows (less defined) will be created. Because of this, the image will appear softer, and less texture will be shown, so less imperfections will be seen.






Three-Point Lighting:

Three-point lighting is when you combine hard light and soft light to create a natural effect. It is used a lot by professionals, and it consists of one hard (key) light that points directly at the face, a diffused (fill) light that softens up the picture by making imperfections less detailed, and a backlight, that is placed behind the subject so that they will appear more separated from the background.


http://www.cybercollege.com/

As you see, the subject is in front of the backlight and behind the hard and soft lights.
The following is an example of a picture taken with three-point lighting:


http://www.cybercollege.com/

As you see, the light is distributed evenly but it is not too soft, and the subject stands out because of the back light.



Printing Compositions: *click on images to inlarge them*

Portrait I: hard light

The main challenge with this print was getting enough detail without losing the special effect that the hard light gave. I started out with no filter and an 8 aperture (test strip 1), but the pictures looked milky and not detailed enough. The contrast was fabulous with the more open apertures, like 5.6 (t.s. 2), but the picture overall was too dark and still not detailed enough. So in the end I kept the 4 filter and the 8 aperture, with a time of 20 seconds (print 1).

test strip 1: A:8 ; T:10 ; F:none


test strip 2: A:5.6 ; T:26 ; F:4



print 1: A:8 ; T:20 ; F:4



Portrait II: natural light

This portrait had strange dots and ripples that I was unable to take out. I worked with high filters to give her a more "stone" -ish appearance. I started out with an 8 aperture and a medium filter (test strip 3), which gave me quite a nice image, but too "soft" and somewhat light. I tried to go darker, but still I wasn't satisfied with the result, so I changed the filter to a higher one and played with the time (t.s. 4 and 5) until I got the perfect settings for my final print (print 2).

test strip 3: A:8 ; T:15 ; F:2.5



test strip 4: A:8 ; T:35 ; F:4.5



test strip 5: A:8 ; T:45 ; F:4.5



print 2: A:8 ; T:40 ; F:4.5



Still Life I: "hard" natural light

This print has "hard" light because of the striking contrast between the areas of light and no light, even though the lighting was natural. For this print, I wanted to have as much contrast as possible to show the amazing light effect. I started out with a 4 aperture and a low time (test strip 6) but I got something horribly grey and dark! So I closed the aperture to 8 and inserted a high filter (t.s. 7) but still the picture didn't have as much contrast as I wanted. To get this contrast I closed the aperture even more to 11, and tried different times (t.s. 8) until I realized that the best time was 45 seconds (print 3).

test strip 6: A:4 ; T:5 ; F:none



test strip 7: A:8 ; T:11 ; F:4.5



test strip 8: A:40 ; T:40-35-30 left to right ; F:4.5



print 3: A:11 ; T:45 ; F:4.5



Still Life II: "soft" natural light

This print has "soft" light because the light is more evenly spread out among the subject, with no areas of total white or total black. The image seems softer because of this. For this print, I was again concentrating on contrast and detail. I started out with simial settings as the first still life, just a lower time (test strip 9), but the contrast wasn't very good. So I increased the time to 40 seconds (t.s. 10) and eventually decided to go to 45 seconds for my final print (print 4).

test strip 9: A:11 ; T:25 ; F:4.5



test strip 10: A:11 ; T:40 ; F:4.5



print 4: A:11 ; T:45 ; F:4.5



Landscape I: morning natural light

This picture was taken around 9 in the morning, which accounts for the long shadows seen in it. My main focus for this print was to have the right balance of whites and blacks, and therefore a good contrast. I started out with trying two different apertures, 4 and 8, and the same time (test strip 11). Neither of these was very successful, one being almost completely black, so I tried closing up the aperture and increasing the time (t.s. 12), but I still wasn't satisfied with the contrast. So I inserted a medium filter and went back to the 8 aperture (t.s. 13) and I was quite happy with the results, since I thought there was enough contrast. Therefore, for my final print I increased the time by two seconds and got a contrast which I was satisfied with, and an image which I thought represented the morning light well (print 5).

test strip 11: A:4-8 left to right ; T:20 ; F:none



test strip 12: A:11 ; T:25 ; F:none



test strip 13: A:8 ; T:18 ; F:2.5



print 5: A:8 ; T:20 ; F:2.5



Landscape II: evening natural light

This picture was taken around 6 in the afternoon. You can see that the sun is low in the sky by noticing the shadows that the trees create. I was worried that this picture would be too dark, but in the end I was happy with the final print. I started out with the same settings as the previous landscape (test strip 14) but I got a picture with way too much white! So I opened up the aperture all the way, kept the same filter and tried different times (t.s. 15) to see if it would improve. For my final print I just increased the time a bit, to 15 seconds, and I was satisfied with the contrast beween the trees and the sky, and with the reflection on the trees in the lake (print 6).

test strip 14: A:8 ; T:20 ; F:2.5



test strip 15: A:2.8 ; T:8-10-12 left to right ; F:2.5



print 6: A:2.8 ; T:15 ; F:2.5






Image Bank:

http://www.eoloperfido.com/

"Elena" by Eolo Perfido.
I chose this picture because it's a beautiful portrait that must have taken a long time to get right. I like how the artist shows the person's reflection, making them look like they are deep in thought or daydreaming. I think this picture has character, and it wouldn't be this beautiful without excellent lighting done by the photographer. It looks like the lighting may be natural, coming from the other side of the "glass" or window.

About Eolo Perfido:
Eolo Perfido was born in France in 1972, and started working with photography at the age of 28. Most of his pictures are portraits of people, and he is working on improving his skills further. He now lives and works in Rome.


http://www.design-and-photography.com/

"Untitled" by Ralph Kerpa
I chose this picture because it's original. I've never seen a picture of a money bill, before, so this one caught my interest. The contrast is really excellent, and there is barely ANY gray. I think that a hard light was used to take this picture, because the contrast came out so well. I also like how close-up the photographer got to the dollar bill, to make it seem more interesting.

About Ralph Kerpa:
Ralph Kerpa is a photographer who owns a large photography studio. He was born near Hamburg in 1965, and he began to be interested in photography in the 80's. He is known for taking pictures that make an impression and leave a mark.
http://lonnatucker.com/


"Approaching storms" by Lonna Tucker
I chose this picture because it amazed me when I first saw it. The landscape is beautiful, the contrast excellent and it is focused everywhere. I love the effect that the clouds give, they look very imposing and vast. The plants on the bottom half of the picture add texture, and the rolling hills with the forest (or rocks?) in the back bring this photograph close to perfection. The lighting is amazing, it looks like this picture was taken in the late afternoon.

About Lonna Tucker:
Lonna Tucker is a commercial photographer who is based in Tempe Arizona. She sells her photographs to many big tourism companies such as Hilton Resorts, America West Airlines, and Fuji Film. She has done this for over 20 years, and she mostly works with landscapes, golfscapes, and classic cars.